But they took a few photos and gave them to us on a CD. And now that we're home, we're able to share them.
So without further ado ...
We started just before dusk, in time to capture this shot from near the top.
And we finished after dark.
Thursday, December 17, 2009
"Postposting" A Couple Photos
When we climbed the Sydney Harbour Bridge, we weren't allowed to take our own camera. Something about not wanting things crashing through windshields.
But they took a few photos and gave them to us on a CD. And now that we're home, we're able to share them.
So without further ado ...
But they took a few photos and gave them to us on a CD. And now that we're home, we're able to share them.
So without further ado ...
Tuesday, December 8, 2009
Trip To Oz Is At An End
Alas, all good things must end. Or in this case, all great things.
Sadly, we bid our farewell to South Bruny Island, our new favorite place for serenity, scenery and wildlife. But not before our ritual bottle of bubbly (which we'd hauled all the way from Freycinet Vineyard ... delicious), which we enjoyed inside our cottage with our home-cooked trumpeter purchased fresh from the Adventure Bay General Store. We also finished off our Tim Tam cookies, the best on the planet.
We were so far south that the sun rose about 4:30 a.m., about the same time we did so we could pack and make the 45-minute return to the car ferry. It's a good thing we didn't dilly dally any longer, as the car ramp was hoisted just after we pulled on board.
We flew from Hobart back to Sydney, where the adventures had all begun three weeks ago. After stashing our luggage at the airport, we put our overnight essentials in our knapsacks and headed to the last touristy thing that we had run out of time for when we first arrived: A climb to the top of the anchor pylons on the Sydney Harbor Bridge.
Even though we'd climbed the actual bridge three weeks ago, we weren't allowed to take any photos (to prevent cameras from crashing to the roadway below), so this was a great stop for beautiful panorama shots before heading home.
Because our flight wasn't 'til the next morning, we made our way back to our friends Annette and Nick, where we did one last swim in the (very warm) Southern Ocean,barefoot jogged on the smooth sand, and enjoyed a glass of pinot over a meal of kangaroo and salad while recounting our journey.
Yes, we did say a meal of kangaroo. In Australia it's common and it's sustainable. Plus, it's lean on fat and high on protein.
While it's sad to be leaving this paradise, we are invigorated by the experiences, people and scenery that we were blessed with on this trip.
Some things we'll never forget:
A couple more photos to show what we were fortunate to encounter:
Sadly, we bid our farewell to South Bruny Island, our new favorite place for serenity, scenery and wildlife. But not before our ritual bottle of bubbly (which we'd hauled all the way from Freycinet Vineyard ... delicious), which we enjoyed inside our cottage with our home-cooked trumpeter purchased fresh from the Adventure Bay General Store. We also finished off our Tim Tam cookies, the best on the planet.
We were so far south that the sun rose about 4:30 a.m., about the same time we did so we could pack and make the 45-minute return to the car ferry. It's a good thing we didn't dilly dally any longer, as the car ramp was hoisted just after we pulled on board.
We flew from Hobart back to Sydney, where the adventures had all begun three weeks ago. After stashing our luggage at the airport, we put our overnight essentials in our knapsacks and headed to the last touristy thing that we had run out of time for when we first arrived: A climb to the top of the anchor pylons on the Sydney Harbor Bridge.
Even though we'd climbed the actual bridge three weeks ago, we weren't allowed to take any photos (to prevent cameras from crashing to the roadway below), so this was a great stop for beautiful panorama shots before heading home.
Because our flight wasn't 'til the next morning, we made our way back to our friends Annette and Nick, where we did one last swim in the (very warm) Southern Ocean,barefoot jogged on the smooth sand, and enjoyed a glass of pinot over a meal of kangaroo and salad while recounting our journey.
Yes, we did say a meal of kangaroo. In Australia it's common and it's sustainable. Plus, it's lean on fat and high on protein.
While it's sad to be leaving this paradise, we are invigorated by the experiences, people and scenery that we were blessed with on this trip.
Some things we'll never forget:
- The march of the ferrie penguins on Bruny Island with shearwaters circling and squealing overhead.
- The howling wind (which broke Brad's sunglasses) and towering cliffs around Tasman Island.
- Fresh oysters for $10 a dozen, chased by an oaky Chardonnay.
- The porcupine-like echidna we saw on the trail to the Fluted Cape on Bruny Island. (To the uninitiated like us, it looks like a cross between a bunny, a platypus and a porcupine).
- The symphony of birds and wildlife at sunrise every single morning.
- The many stunning sunsets ... at Annette and Nick's, in the Barossa Valley, at the 12 Apostles on the Great Ocean Road, from the beach at Robe, at the Peron Sand Dunes on St. Helens Peninsula, in the shadow of the Hazards at Freycinet National Park, at Port Arthur, and The Neck connecting North and South Bruny Islands.
- The feeling of isolation wherever we were in Tasmania. We weren't in the middle of nowhere ... we were on the edge of nowhere.
- Sucking coffee through a Tim Tam cookie.
- How cookies are "bisquits" ... and bisquits are "scones."
- The generous and caring spirit and refreshing politeness of just about everyone we met.
- Pot-belly stoves.
- How people take time to have meaningful conversations. There's very little sense of "rush" here.
- Polite drivers. They actually leave the fast lane for the fast cars.
- Dry riesling, Australian style. Citrusy, minerally. And downright delicious.
- Christmas carols and decorations when it was balmy warm outside and everyone is wearing shorts and sandals ... the holidays just don't seem the same to us unless it's winter.
- Artisan cheeses made on small islands or small towns ... flavorful and wonderful.
- Brad figuring out after two and a half weeks how to adjust the shutter speed on our new camera ... just in time for the last few days of our trip. (Manuals? Who needs 'em when you can fidget around and (eventually) figure things out?)
- The bracing faceful of frigid air that greeted us at LAX ... it was just a day ago we were romping on a sun-drenched beach.
- How paltry three weeks is to see such an enchanting land ... three months might come close to the time needed to see and do the things we enjoy.
A couple more photos to show what we were fortunate to encounter:
The Ady Gil is famous for the making the fastest circumnavigation of the world ... but the day after we saw it, it was heading to Antarctica to protect whales from illegal hunts.
It's not ALL about the vine!
One of our Bruny Island dinners ... bought from the island's oyster shack.
The echidna ... part bunny, part platypus and part porcupine.
We thought it would be a 2.5-hour hike ... but then the climb to the top of the Fluted Cape got in our way and added an hour to our eventual time.
Sunday, December 6, 2009
Serendipity
We shouldn't be, but we often are amazed at how serendipity guides us on our travels.
For instance, if it wasn't for Mark, a friendly photographer on the Great Ocean Road, we never would have learned of http://www.wotif.com/, which has great deals for last-minute accommodations.
Which is how we found Louise's Cottage in Hobart's Sandy Bay neighborhood.
Which is where we met the proprieter, Patricia.
What a gem. Not only does she make sure her guests have the best dining experiences, but she's an angel to neighborhood children. We were awed by her generosity, love and giving spirit. She's an inspiration.
Another case in point: We had just driven from the top of Mt. Wellington overlooking Hobart when we pulled in for a pitstop at a beautiful picnic area. That's where a nice gentleman who was part of a wedding party mistook us for guests and struck up conversation.
He told us of magical nature of Bruny Island, and before you know it, we drove straight to Kettering, where the car ferry was waiting. We had just enough time to get some cash from the ATM and ask the helpful gentleman at the visitors' center for some accommodation recomendations.
Jackpot!
Bruny Island is one of the most serene, lovely places we have ever visited. And with some of the nicest people ... like our host David Gunton of Explorers' Cottages. He's full of information and very helpful.
Last night at dusk, we watched an army of ferry penguins (the world's smallest) come ashore, waddle to their burrows and feed their young. All while squealing shearwaters soared overhead during their migration from Antarctica. Incredible.
One of the reasons we love Bruny Island so much is that you have to drive on a one-lane gravel road through a state forest (and wallabies) just to get to the only wi-fi hotpot on the island.
There is so much to talk about, which we'll save for a future posting ... but here are some pix to give you an idea of the spectacular nature of Tasmania.
For instance, if it wasn't for Mark, a friendly photographer on the Great Ocean Road, we never would have learned of http://www.wotif.com/, which has great deals for last-minute accommodations.
Which is how we found Louise's Cottage in Hobart's Sandy Bay neighborhood.
Which is where we met the proprieter, Patricia.
What a gem. Not only does she make sure her guests have the best dining experiences, but she's an angel to neighborhood children. We were awed by her generosity, love and giving spirit. She's an inspiration.
Another case in point: We had just driven from the top of Mt. Wellington overlooking Hobart when we pulled in for a pitstop at a beautiful picnic area. That's where a nice gentleman who was part of a wedding party mistook us for guests and struck up conversation.
He told us of magical nature of Bruny Island, and before you know it, we drove straight to Kettering, where the car ferry was waiting. We had just enough time to get some cash from the ATM and ask the helpful gentleman at the visitors' center for some accommodation recomendations.
Jackpot!
Bruny Island is one of the most serene, lovely places we have ever visited. And with some of the nicest people ... like our host David Gunton of Explorers' Cottages. He's full of information and very helpful.
Last night at dusk, we watched an army of ferry penguins (the world's smallest) come ashore, waddle to their burrows and feed their young. All while squealing shearwaters soared overhead during their migration from Antarctica. Incredible.
One of the reasons we love Bruny Island so much is that you have to drive on a one-lane gravel road through a state forest (and wallabies) just to get to the only wi-fi hotpot on the island.
There is so much to talk about, which we'll save for a future posting ... but here are some pix to give you an idea of the spectacular nature of Tasmania.
Hobart's Salamanca Market, a delight of sights, sounds and tastes
Stunning views atop Mt. Wellington
Sunset at The Neck on Bruny Island
From near our "home"
Can you tell we're having fun yet?
Thursday, December 3, 2009
The Land of "Ests"
Australia is the smallest continent. And the second-driest (Antarctica is the first).
And in Port Arthur, we've seen some of the tallest and biggest things in the world.
Well, we're guessing this is the biggest bumble bee in the world ... it sure seemed like it when he buzzed us.
Port Arthur was a penal colony in the 1800s that fell into disrepair and now is being preserved. It's a huge compound that we strolled after the crowds had departed in the late afternoon. Its serenity today is in sharp contrast to the sadness it harbored many years ago. After dinner of mussels and fish and chips, we returned for the ghost tour, an entertaining walk to the areas where the presence of long-dead convicts remains.
We didn't feel or see any spirits, but Karen jumped the highest when the guide spooked our group as it was huddled around the dissection table in the basement of the prison surgeon's home.
It's now breakfast time in Hobart, which means time to go out and explore ... more to come.
And in Port Arthur, we've seen some of the tallest and biggest things in the world.
Well, we're guessing this is the biggest bumble bee in the world ... it sure seemed like it when he buzzed us.
And on a boat tour of the Tasman Peninsula (where we encountered the windiest weather in our lives), we came to Point Pillar, the tallest sea cliffs in the Southern Hemisphere (at the most southeastern point (southeasternest?) in Australia):
We didn't feel or see any spirits, but Karen jumped the highest when the guide spooked our group as it was huddled around the dissection table in the basement of the prison surgeon's home.
It's now breakfast time in Hobart, which means time to go out and explore ... more to come.
Can you tell we're having fun yet?
Sorry for the Silence. We're Back Online
Crikies! The fact we haven't posted in a few days isn't due to inattention. It's just that we've been in areas where wi-fi isn't accessible to travelers, or where the Internet is prohibitively expensive.
Anyway, there's quite a bit to bring you up to speed on.
We are on a clockwise-direction tour of Tasmania, basically starting at 12:00 (Launceston, Tamar wine country and Bridport) and ending at 6:00 (the capitol of Hobart).
From our last posting in St. Helens, we headed just north to Binalong Bay, gateway to the Bay of Fires, called the world's second-best beach in 2005 by Conde Nast Traveler magazine. On our arrival, we quickly set out for a long hike north along the bay's white sandy beaches, only to quickly turn back when a dark and foreboding cloud came out of the south on its way from Antarctica.
So we checked into our cottage overlooking the bay, warmed ourselves after the blustery weather, and then set out for another hike, this time south along the sheltered shoreline. Good thing it was sheltered, because the wind whipped up and the rain resumed, shortening the excursion to only three hours.
Once back at the cottage, we prepared the fresh scallops and trumpeter that we brought from St. Helens. Even with the rain, we had billion-dollar views of the beach and simply enjoyed the serenity. Here are a couple shots, one from our bedroom and one from our deck:
We finally did our long Bay of Fires hike (four hours) the next day when the rain (but not the wind and clouds) held back:
Next up was Freycinet National Park, a couple hours south, home of Wineglass Bay. Everyone we checked with said the weather the next day was going to be "brilliant" following the morning drizzles. So off we went on a 6-hour hike, leaving in light rain and figuring it would clear by the time we got to the spectacular Wineglass Bay.
So you can imagine our disappointment when the rain got heavier, not lighter, midway through the hike at Hazard's Bay. You can feel Karen's mood in this picture:
But lo and behold, the clouds did eventually part by the time we got to the overlook of Wineglass Bay.
With such heavenly weather and scenery, we quickly moved from a lower-body workout (hiking) to an upper-body workout (kayaking). We paddled around Cole's Bay's numerous beaches, in the shadows of The Hazards mountains:
For a land of such natural beauty, we still are amazed at the few number of people we come across, either travelers or locals, and we are grateful to be two who are able to enjoy its many splendors.
Anyway, there's quite a bit to bring you up to speed on.
We are on a clockwise-direction tour of Tasmania, basically starting at 12:00 (Launceston, Tamar wine country and Bridport) and ending at 6:00 (the capitol of Hobart).
From our last posting in St. Helens, we headed just north to Binalong Bay, gateway to the Bay of Fires, called the world's second-best beach in 2005 by Conde Nast Traveler magazine. On our arrival, we quickly set out for a long hike north along the bay's white sandy beaches, only to quickly turn back when a dark and foreboding cloud came out of the south on its way from Antarctica.
So we checked into our cottage overlooking the bay, warmed ourselves after the blustery weather, and then set out for another hike, this time south along the sheltered shoreline. Good thing it was sheltered, because the wind whipped up and the rain resumed, shortening the excursion to only three hours.
Once back at the cottage, we prepared the fresh scallops and trumpeter that we brought from St. Helens. Even with the rain, we had billion-dollar views of the beach and simply enjoyed the serenity. Here are a couple shots, one from our bedroom and one from our deck:
We finally did our long Bay of Fires hike (four hours) the next day when the rain (but not the wind and clouds) held back:
Next up was Freycinet National Park, a couple hours south, home of Wineglass Bay. Everyone we checked with said the weather the next day was going to be "brilliant" following the morning drizzles. So off we went on a 6-hour hike, leaving in light rain and figuring it would clear by the time we got to the spectacular Wineglass Bay.
So you can imagine our disappointment when the rain got heavier, not lighter, midway through the hike at Hazard's Bay. You can feel Karen's mood in this picture:
But lo and behold, the clouds did eventually part by the time we got to the overlook of Wineglass Bay.
With such heavenly weather and scenery, we quickly moved from a lower-body workout (hiking) to an upper-body workout (kayaking). We paddled around Cole's Bay's numerous beaches, in the shadows of The Hazards mountains:
For a land of such natural beauty, we still are amazed at the few number of people we come across, either travelers or locals, and we are grateful to be two who are able to enjoy its many splendors.
Can you tell we're having fun yet?
Saturday, November 28, 2009
Our Most Poetic Posting Up To This Point
In the Tasmania's town of Pyengana, there’s a pub in a paddock with two pigs, Pauline and PB, who enjoy pilsener.
So we bought them two (and split one between us).
Don't worry, for animal lovers like us, the pigs' brew is watered-down version that's approved by the Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. And besides, they live in one of the loveliest, greenest, most serene valleys we've ever seen. Sure beats winding up on someone's dinner table.
What a spectacular day. It started off with pouring rain and lightening that delayed our departure for the east coast of Tasmania, allowing us to enjoy our first home-cooked meal of our trip. Our hosts at Platypus Park provided a hamper of farm-fresh, free-range eggs, bacon slices that were the biggest in Tasmania's history and other goodies (like Vegemite) that were all enjoyed in front of roaring fire in a pot-belly stove.
It was hard to leave such comfort, but we were lured by new adventures.
About three-quarters of our drive was in moderate to heavy rain. But then the rains stopped, the clouds lifted and the oh-so delicious scenery was gloriously revealed.
Instead of using words to describe the day, here are some pix:
Can you tell we're having fun yet?
Friday, November 27, 2009
Look! It’s a Kangaroo! No, it’s a Wallaby!
Today was our first full day in Tasmania, or “Tassie” as the locals call it. We started early in the morning with a stroll through quaint Launceston and then through Cataract Gorge, a lovely trail along the Tamar River.
The gorge is right on the city’s edge, and it’s a wonderfully preserved natural area. While there, we came upon what we thought was a kangaroo and excitedly snapped several photos to show people like you. So you can imagine our disappointment when some locals brushed it off with, “Ah, it’s just a wallaby.”
A what? A quick visit to Wikipedia says wallabies are smaller versions of kangaroos. In some parts of Australia, they’re considered pests. Regardless, it’s not something we see every day in Newbury Park ... and besides, check out her little Joey in the pouch.
We then headed for the Tamar Valley wine region, a journey that was capped with a delightful chat with Shane Holloway, the owner and winemaker at Dalemere Winery. Too bad it’s so cost prohibitive to ship wine home from here ... or we’d be sending pallets.
We’re now relaxing in our home for the night on at Platypus Park Country Retreat, on a farm in Bridport on the north coast. Our hostess Gina Scott has been warm and wonderful.
A few other pix from the day ...
The gorge is right on the city’s edge, and it’s a wonderfully preserved natural area. While there, we came upon what we thought was a kangaroo and excitedly snapped several photos to show people like you. So you can imagine our disappointment when some locals brushed it off with, “Ah, it’s just a wallaby.”
A what? A quick visit to Wikipedia says wallabies are smaller versions of kangaroos. In some parts of Australia, they’re considered pests. Regardless, it’s not something we see every day in Newbury Park ... and besides, check out her little Joey in the pouch.
We then headed for the Tamar Valley wine region, a journey that was capped with a delightful chat with Shane Holloway, the owner and winemaker at Dalemere Winery. Too bad it’s so cost prohibitive to ship wine home from here ... or we’d be sending pallets.
We’re now relaxing in our home for the night on at Platypus Park Country Retreat, on a farm in Bridport on the north coast. Our hostess Gina Scott has been warm and wonderful.
A few other pix from the day ...
The Cataract Gorge on the edge of Launceston
The view outside Jansz Winery
The view inside Jansz Winery
Thursday, November 26, 2009
Bad News ... Good News
The bad news: Our fish and chips tonight cost $36.
The good news: It was the best fish and chips we've had. Ever. In our lives.
And topping it all off was the fact we had the corner table overlooking the Tamar and Esk rivers in Launceston, Tasmania. It was at dusk as the lights on the nearby hill were coming on. In short, it was a memorable Thanksgiving meal.
We've seen some great sights the past couple of days ... here are a few of them.
The longest jetty we've ever seen ... it's in Beachport
A beacon for hikers at Shipwreck Beach ... it's the biggest cairn we've ever seen
The view from the highest canopy walk in the world
Giant ferns on the rainforest floor, taken from the canopy walk
Can you tell we're having a good time?
A close call
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
For Your Bucket List: The Great Ocean Road
It's called the Great Ocean Road ... and it should be on your Bucket List.
No further commentary.
No further commentary.
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