Not Your Typical Election Day

At an organic restaurant we dined at a couple nights ago, El Alburgue, we learned that they will take you to their organic farm for a traditional meal prepared in an underground stone oven. We couldn't say "no," and it turns out we had one of our most memorable lunches. Ever.

Our hostess, Virginia, led us through their beautiful gardens, up a rocky, rutted lane, and into the farm field, where they grow lettuces, cauliflower, tomatoes, edible flowers, onions, leeks, corn, potatoes, peppers -- all with "no chems."

Our tableclothed table was waiting for us in the field, practically in the shadows of the Ollantaytambo ruins. But first, a pile of river stones had been heated to superhot, then lined a small pit. On top of the stones went layers of chicken, pork and alpaca, followed by sweet potatoes, yellow potatoes and gigantic lima beans, each separated by layers of hot rock.

Here's the layer of chicken going on the hot rocks.

This was then covered with water-soaked "sugar paper," and then covered with dirt to make what looked like s steaming ant hill. After half an hour, the fixins were uncovered, and served with an organic salad, along with purple corn juice and Matacuy, a digestive.

Virginia then departed with cooking crew, leaving just the two of us to soak up a superlative high-Andean dining experience.

If you look closely, you can see the ruins in the hills.

With our "food high" still kicked in, we said "adios" to charming Ollantaytambo and caught the train for the 90-minute trip to Aguas Caliente, the end of the line for those doing the Machu Picchu expereince.

Karen's happiest when her passport is at the ready.

After the past few days in the desolate Andes, Aguas nearly overwhelms the senses. A mixture of modern, funky, rustic, hippie and yuppie is all thrown together, somewhere in between a Star Wars bar and Waterworld, with more pizza joints per capita than anywhere we've visited.

Our home for the next couple of days is Gringo Bill's. Don't let the name make you think it's a backpacker's hostel.  It's a delightful jumble of stone staircases, terraces, views and spacious rooms. With TV -- oh glorious TV!

While we could spend the evening watching election returns on CNN, we're choosing to truly get away from it all, so the TV is off and the music is on.

Gringo Brad on our patio at Gringo Bill's.

After today's lunch, it was hard to think we'd have a dinner that rivaled it, but we sure came close. At the Tree House, Karen had an organic eggplant parmesean, and Brad had trout cerviche. It was so good, Karen predicts we'll eat there again.

On our way home, we came across a group of teenagers in the main plaza who were having a great time entertaining the crowd with what looked like a cross between traditional native dances and MTV. Their laughs, smiles and energy were uplifting. A great way to end an eventful day.

With tomorrow's alarm set for 4:30 for breakfast at 5 and Machu Picchu bus departure at 5:45, tonight we are hitting the hay early. We hope to awaken to no recounts.