There Once was a Couple on Nantucket

We caught an early ferry from Hyannis to Nantucket, where we spent the next three days, the first two in glorious sun, and the last day in early morning fog, then sprinkles, and then downpour.

But nothing can dampen our enthusiasm for the island. As one of the local bumperstickers says, "God may have made Martha's Vineyard, but he lives on Nantucket."

Our home for the next three days, the Hawthorne House, built in 1849, was a five-minute walk from the ferry along the cobblestone Main Street and brick sidewalks, surrounded by great restaurants, shops, an amazingly affordable wine store and the home of the world's best cinammon roll (in Brad's well-tested opinion).

Instead of confining ourselves to downtown or renting a car, we instead rented bicycles for the next two days, freeing us to seeing the prodigious sites up close and personal, and reminding our butts that they're not as young as they once were.

The island is very hospitable to bikes, with racks everywhere, and pretty much every driver ceding the right of way to cyclists.

Day 1

On our first day, we did about 14 miles out to Dionus and Madaket beaches and back, stopping for picnic provisions at Something Natural.

The sun was in full glory, the breeze was refreshing, and we were treated to the perfect spot of Dionus Beach sand for lunch, where Karen took a dip in the Atlantic, her first of this trip.

On the way back was a freshwater pond where we stopped for snack and water, and were amazed to see a bale of turtles (Google it ... Brad did) poke their prehistoric heads up and stare at us with the same curiosity the seals had yesterday.

Nantucket is home to incredible cuisine, so we were delighted to get the two last seats at the counter, which doubled as front-row seats to all the action in the kitchen, complete with the ability to have a discussion with the chef about his preparations. And since it's a BYOB restaurant, they let us walk to the wine store on Main Street where we found a Rombauer chardonnay for the same price we can get it back home.

It was the perfect accompaniment to the local organic greens, tuna tartare and cod with mashed potatoes, baked figs and golden zucchini.

Better still was the conversation with our counter neighbors, Trudy and Merle, who've been coming to their second home on Nantucket for about 25 years. They told us funny stories, gave us tips for the next day's bike ride and -- best of all -- called American Seasonings to secure our dinner reservation for the next night (more on that later).

Following dinner, there was no better way to cap the day than with a stroll through town, window shopping.

Day 2

Up early, not a cloud in sight. To Petticoat bakery for the world's best cinnamon roll, coffee and tea, and then on our bikes and pointed toward the other end of the island from yesterday, the picturesque village of Sconset, about 11 miles away. But first was navigating the way out of downtown -- unbenknownst to us -- on the truck route. Note to selves: next time, check the map carefully to find the uncongested routes.

Once at the tip, we did a two-mile walk. Mile 1 was on the Bluffs Trail, which actually meanders through the backyards of the majestic Cliffside homes overlooking the empty beach and the vast ocean. And Mile 2 was along the shoreline, accessed by our not-so-stealthy entry onto a private staircase to the sand.

Back in town, we couldn't help but check out the local wine shop, and looked at each other knowingly when we saw two of our favorite Santa Rita Hills chardonnays, Liquid Farm and Clos Pepe, next to each other on the shelf. We wonder if the store owner actually knows that the winemakers at both are good friends.

Dinner this night was at American Seasonings. What providence that Trudy and Merle are regulars at the restaurant and had so kindly made reservations on our behalf. We had scallops, organic greens and arctic char on top of fried green tomato. Each bite was a taste sensation.

Day 3

Because we had a 1:30 ferry departure, we had to begin our activities early. So it was back to the best home of the world's greatest cinnamon roll and then a quick stroll in the fog to the other side of downtown to catch our four-wheel drive van for a nature tour of the Coskata-Cotsua beaches and sand dunes. Perhaps because of the dense fog, we were the only two passengers, making for a private tour.

Once the fog lifted, an isolated, serene world was revealed of narrow beaches separating the Atlantic from Nantucket Sound, birds and marshes. One highlight was watching an osprey building his next with twigs and grass.

Once back in town, we bee lined to Yoshi's sushi, let the chef know we had less than 30 minutes for the ferry, and he expedited our order of uni, spicy tuna and a mixed seafood roll. While Karen paid the bill, Brad ran for our stored backpacks a block away, and we hustled through the streets to make it just in time for the ferry to Hyannis.

Once back in Wellfleet, we enjoyed a relaxing evening with hosts Mike and Sally with cheese and crackers followed by pasta puttanesca.

Thanks for reading through this long post ... here are three days of photos from our Nantucket excursion:

Madaket Beach

 

Madaket Beach with two cyclists on it



Two-wheeled fun

On the lookout for TOUS (turtles of unusual size ... yes, that's an actual Princess Bride reference)

One of many TOUS spottings

Downtown from the Brant Lighthouse

From our spot behind the counter at Black Eyed Susan's

In the Sconset wine shop, two of our favorite chardonnays were next two each other on the shelf. We wonder if the owner knows that winemakers Jeff and Nikki Nelson of Liquid Farm and Wes Hagen of Clos Pepe are good friends and supporters of each other's work

Video: Strolling the Bluffs Trail in between the local homes' backyards and the Atlantic

 

Morning solitude in the Coskata preservation area

We didn't know conch grew on dead trees

An oystercatcher

On the ferry headed back to the mainland, Nantucket harbor in the background

Sun, Sand, Seals

We were delighted to get the chance to spend the day with our good friend from our HOBY days, Tina Karidoyanas, who lives in nearby Bourne, and who chauffeured us up and down the cape in grand style.

Our first stop was the Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge near Chatham, where we walked the shoreline in the light fog and snapped some photos. And then we took a boat into the Nantucket Sound around South Beach for a look at the local seals, after the fog burned off.

We know, we know, looking at seals sounds about as fun as looking at sea gulls. But this was different and infinitely more interesting learning about their habits and having them stare at us in curiosity as we motored near them or go about their business of fattening up on the local seafood. Plus, we motored to where a huge nor'easter broke a barrier island into two barrier islands.

Next stops were Chatham for "first lunch" of lobster bisque and clam chowder, then to Rock Harbor for another beach stroll, and then Orleans for "second lunch" overlooking the town cove with graceful swans.

And then to the Cape Cod National Seashore and a late afternoon stroll around the Cape Cod Lighthouse.

And finally, we stocked up at the Wellfleet Market on cheese, crackers and wine for the sunset at Blackfish Cove, which was our put-in spot for yesterday's kayak trip.

Since we are unaccustomed to the huge tidal fluctuations of Wellfleet Bay, what we found there astounded us. Instead of a water-filled bay, it was completely empty, exposing the oyster beds that we had kayaked over the day earlier, and all the sail boats and fishing boats were grounded.

It was a surreal sight, made even more incredible by how quickly the bay filled over the next hour or so. As we enjoyed the sunset, the encroaching tide righted most of the boats and re-covered the oyster beds.

It was tough saying goodbye to our gracious hostess, but we needed to get to bed so we could get to Hyannis in the morning for the ferry to Nantucket island. More on that in future posts.

Here are some photos of the day:

Strolling in the Monomoy wildlife refuge

The two seals in back are sleeping, and the guy in front was just hanging out 

The Cape Cod Light 

 

 

When we first saw Blackfish Cove, it was filled with water and we kayaked across it. So imagine our surprise when we found it completely empty at low tide, grounding all the boats

 

 

Watching the sun set and the tide rush back in with a Sunstone viognier

Kayak-a-Mania II: Wind, Waves, and a Reward of Gorgeous Scenery

And here we thought we got our only kayak adventure of this vacation on San Juan Island.

Turns out, our friends Sally and Mike in Wellfleet had a little kayak adventure of their own in store for us.

We launched our kayaks in Blackfish Bay and pointed them toward the Great Island, on the other side of Wellfleet harbor, with a steady and strong wind from the southwest. The wind, combined with the incoming tide, made for some rough going.

Sally and Mike gave us plenty of opportunities to turn back or pick easier destinations, but we persevered. For two hours of non-stop paddling, we persevered.

And we were rewarded with some exquisite scenery. We were the only humans on land for miles and miles, so we strolled south along the shore toward Jeremy Point, seeing plovers, willits, vultures, mating  horseshoe crab, herring boils, and one porpoise skull. We crossed from the shore to the marshland, where the only sounds to be heard were the local birds, the waves and the breeze. It was a tranquil and peaceful sojourn.

The ride back may have been about 30 minutes quicker, but it was nonetheless challenging, as the wind remained stiff, and we now had to deal with the receding tide, which made it seem we were paddling uphill.

When we got home, we were treated first to two Advils for our kayak-weary arms, barbecued Alaskan salmon, watermelon and arugula salad and a view from the patio overlooking preserved pineland.

Here are some photos of the trip:

Our hosts, Mike and Sally, showing us how it's done

 

If you look closely, the far-off ribbon of brown sand was our destination

Have we ever told you that Karen is happy being around water?

We suggest double-clicking on this one to see the beauty of the Great Island

Orcas Island to Port Townsend to Boston to Cape Cod

It's been a few days since our last post, so we might try to cram a lot of activity into this one.

Anyway, there was a full day of activity after we left Orcas Island and before we headed east to Cape Cod.

We drove and took two ferries to Port Townsend, where we were met by our friend from Iceland, Megan Veley. We walked the historic town center, and she proudly showed us where she works at the Port Townsend Marine Science Center.

This is Megan at the Port Townsend Marine Science Center

 

Saying goodbye at the end of a great day

 

 Here's a small-world experience:

On our first day on Orcas Island, we went to a wine festival, where Brad's favorite was not the wine, but the cider. The hostess at the Finnriver Cidery, Crystie, invited us to her and her husband's farm and tasting room near Port Townsend.

When we told Megan we wouldn't mind going there, it turns out that Megan knows Crystie. So after tasting (and shipping) some incredible ciders, we relaxed after closing time and struck up some getting-to-know-you conversation, and it turns out that Crystie used to work at Karen's company.

Karen with Crystie at the Finnriver tasting room

We left the Northwest on a red-eye flight to Boston, where we were met early Saturday morning by old friend Tina Karidoyanes, who chauffeured us out to the cape and to the home of our host and hostess, Mike and Sally Lehman in Wellfleet, who wasted no time in sharing the quintessential Cape Cod beach experience with us: picnicking, strolling up and down Newcomb Beach, plus bocce ball and beer bottle horseshoes, where you fling a Frisbee to knock a beer bottle off its perch on a chest-high dowel.

The evening consisted of a return to the beach, this time with a bonfire permit, what seemed like a cord of wood and cameras to capture the rising of the full moon.

We'll let the photos fill in the blanks.

 

Tomorrow: sea kayaking in rough seas.
 

Washington Trivia

Here's some trivia about the state of Washington.

The state motto is: "If it isn't raining, it will be. Soon."

And so that's what we came across today, our last full day in the San Juan Islands.

But it could hardly dampen our enthusiasm, even though it forced the cancelation of our (nearly) full-moon kayak trip.

We put on our rain jackets, headed to Eastsound for some creamless seafood chowder and wild morel pizza, then to Moran State Park for a short hike to Cascade Falls.

And then to the Rosario resort, where we hot tubbed, pooled, and listened to a pipe organ show (far better than it sounds).

Since our departure ferry is at 7:15 tomorrow morning, tonight was spent tidying up and packing.
Along with an '08 Patricia Greer Cellars reserve pinot and a salad of local organic greens. All while parking our butts on the sofa and watching our last Orcas Island dusk unfold before us. Even with the sunless grey texture of tonight's sky, it's still an unbelievable view as the Salish Sea darkens, and the lights of the nearby islands begin to twinkle.

So as we say goodbye to Orcas Island, we will always remember the things that make it so special:

• The incredible scenes from our patio and living room as the sun set slowly in the Western sky. (We call this the Land of the 10 p.m. Sun, not quite the far enough north to be the Land of the Midnight Sun, which we experienced in Iceland a couple years ago.)
• The laid-back feel of just about everything. There's no rush hour. Everyone drives the speed limit. And everyone is courteous, friendly and helpful.
• The focus on health and wholesomeness. Most of the food is organic and fresh from the local farms.
• The Honor System. Local farmers put their products on tables next to the road. Take what you want, and leave the cash in the box.

The next time you hear from us, we'll be on Cape Cod ... so here are a few photos from the past few days.

Cascade Falls

If you look hard, you can see the falls in the background

At least he's not power posing this time

 

As our friend Steve from Louisville would say, "Two peas in a pod"

 

This is from a couple of nights ago at Roche Harbor. Brad was in Meat Heaven.

The Madrona Grill at Roche Harbor

The last ferry out of Friday Harbor, heading back to Orcas Island

Meanwhile, back at Sunset Manor ...

 

As we travel to Wellfleet on Cape Cod, we'll be in blog silence ... so the time you hear from us, it will be the weekend.

Kayak-a-Mania ... Let's Get Ready to Paaaaaaaaddddddllllllleeeeee!

This morning, it finally felt like vacation. That's because Karen woke at 5:30 a.m. and said it was time to hit the road.

Or hit the water, as the case may be.

We drove onto the 7:30 ferry bound for Friday Harbor on San Juan Island, a trip of less than an hour.

After getting coffee and tea in town, we drove along the coast to Snug Harbor, where we met our kayak guide, Jim, and set out for a 10-mile round-trip excursion along the west coast, facing Victoria Island, British Columbia.

Although 90 percent of our trip was within the Orca whale habitat, we saw nary a fin.

But we saw a half dozen, or so, majestic bald eagles. Since we took our dinky camera on the kayak, the photos are not of good enough quality to post here ... but take our word for it, we don't see birds like that in Newbury Park.

The weather was sunny and warm, and the waters were calm -- even glassy at times.

We hope the photos and videos below help capture the specialness of this place.

You can tell how warm the sun and how glassy the water was

 

Taking a snack break in a kelp bed

That's British Columbia in the distance.

(If you only knew how long it took to figure out how to post this panorama.)

Approaching Deadman's Cove

Hike-a-Mania ... Let's Get Ready to Raaaaaaaammmmmbbbbbllllleeeee!

Karen says no one will get that headline.

Brad says EVERYONE will get the connection to WrestleMania.

It was a glorious day on the island. Few clouds, warm temps ... a perfect day to hike to the top of Mt. Constitution, the highest spot on the San Juan Islands.

The scenery was spectacular: dense pine forests, moss everywhere, and shafts of sunlight peaking through. Some of the pines seemed impossibly big ... some showing scars from a long-ago fire.

Steep climb up. Steep decline down the other side, stopping for pics at Twin Lakes. And then a treat of smoked salmon and fresh goat cheese from the Pike Street Market waiting for us at the car at the Mountain Lake trailhead.

After a stroll through East Sound, a village so quaint and perfect it seems like the perfect setting for a Stephen King story, we made our way to a rocky beach on Cormorant Bay for a rock-skipping competition and photos.

Once back at Sunset Manor, we finished up the dungeness crab and blue cheese, accompanied by an '08 Ampelos pinot, The Infrequent, of which only two barrels were made. Thank you Peter and Rebecca Work for making such a perfect wine.

From the top of Mt. Constitution

 

 Same place, looking a different direction

Back at Sunset Manor

Digging into the crab

This just never gets old

Day 2: R is for Relax

We awoke to gorgeous weather, then fixed breakfast and hit the road, pointing the car for Doe Harbor.

We soaked in the hot tubs, and then Karen surprised Brad by pre-booking two massages, the perfect way to ease into Island Life.

And then we strolled to the harbor for a wine festival, where the hits of the day actually were the hard cider and the gourmet grilled cheese and wild mushroom sandwiches.

Back at our place, now dubbed Sunset Manor, we had appetizers of dungeness crab and soft cheese, accompanied by Liquid Farm "Four" chardonnay.

In the evening's intellectual competition, Karen whipped Brad at Yatzee. (Brad says that's because she cheats.)

A quintessential Orcas scene.

 

After the massage. And before the wine tasting. 

At the wine tasting. One of the hits of the event was the grilled cheese/wild mushroom sandwiches.

Besides the grilled cheese sandwiches, the music was pretty fantastic, too.

The oxymoron of the day: A clear-cut grove right next to the environmental learning center. We could be wrong, but something seems out of whack here.

Told you earlier that you'll see lots of these kinds of shots.