Few places we've been are as powerful as Mostar in Bosnia-Herzegovina.
Just 20 years ago, it was rubbled in the Balkan war, and the city's centerpiece, the Old Bridge linking its largely Muslim neighborhood with its mainly Christian neighborhood, was destroyed.
Today, it's a vibrant, mostly restored city, with a new Old Bridge. It's difficult to imagine that where we enjoyed the sites and cafes, just a generation ago Hell reigned here.
Probably the most evocative scene is the former city park that was turned into a cemetery where residents buried their war dead under cover of darkness, lest they become sniper victims. And still today, there are bombed and burned hulks of buildings waiting for restoration.
Below are pics from the day, which was capped by a return to Dubrovnik, and a splendid evening dining and strolling the old city.
The Old Bridge. We saw a video of it being destroyed in the war. It's wonderful and encouraging to see it restored.
From the top of a minaret of a nearby mosque. Every couple of hours, a gentleman collects tips from passersby and actually jumps from the center of the bridge. He must have the flattest feet in town.
From the minaret.
This is the city park-turned-cemetery during the war. On one side a church, on another a mosque.
Hollow buildings awaiting restoration.
After Mostar, we returned to Dubrovnik via the backroads of the Herzegovina part of Bosnia-Herzegovina, then to the top of Mt. Srd.
Dubrovnik, too, was mostly destroyed in the war. But it's been restored and is one hopping city, even late into the evening.
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